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Hidden · Harpers Ferry, Iowa, United States

Effigy Mounds

More than 200 ancient earth mounds above the Mississippi River, some shaped like bears and birds, still tied to living Native nations.

Mounds20631 are effigies
BuiltMostly 1st millennium CE
WhereHarpers Ferry, Iowa
StatusNational Monumentproclaimed 1949
View of the Mississippi River and its wooded islands from the bluffs near Effigy Mounds
Photo: Seiadoon, public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.
The place

Mounds shaped like bears and birds on the Mississippi bluffs.

Effigy Mounds National Monument preserves 206 mounds on 2,526 acres in northeastern Iowa, mostly in Allamakee County. Pre-Columbian peoples built them, largely in the first millennium CE, during the later part of the Woodland period. Thirty-one are effigies, earthworks shaped like animals such as bears and birds. Mounds in these shapes were built mainly in southern Wisconsin, northeast Iowa and small parts of Minnesota and Illinois.

The largest, Great Bear Mound, measures 42 meters from head to tail and rises more than a meter above the original ground. The North Unit has 67 mounds and the South Unit has 29, side by side along the river. The Sny Magill Unit, with 112 mounds, lies about 11 miles to the south and has no visitor facilities.

The land sits where eastern hardwood forest meets central prairie, with wetlands and rivers close by, so people could draw on many resources. It is also in the Driftless Area, a region that escaped the last glaciation, which is why its river valleys are so deeply cut.

What happened here

A protected place with living ties to Native nations.

The monument was proclaimed on October 25, 1949, after archaeologists with the Iowa Archaeological Survey mapped the area and argued for its protection. The National Park Service recognizes cultural ties between the monument and about twenty present-day nations, including the Ho-Chunk Nation of Wisconsin, the Iowa Tribe of Kansas and Nebraska and several Sioux communities.

The monument has also had to face hard chapters. From 1999 to 2009, construction of boardwalks and trails damaged archaeological resources without proper consultation with affiliated tribes, and the remains of 41 ancient people were wrongly removed from the museum’s holdings. Later staff worked to repair the damage and rebuild trust. In 2022 the Park Service and the Iowa Tribe of Kansas and Nebraska signed the first Tribal Sister Park agreement between a national park and a Tribal Nation’s park.

Many of the mounds are burial places, so this is a place to visit with respect.

Photos

Mounds and landscape.

Grass-covered mounds among trees at the Sny Magill Unit in Iowa
Grass-covered mounds among trees at the Sny Magill Unit in Iowa. Billwhittaker (talk), CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons.
A grass-covered mound among autumn trees at Effigy Mounds in Iowa
A grass-covered mound among autumn trees at Effigy Mounds in Iowa. Archbob, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons.
Go and see it

Practical notes.

The visitor center is in Harpers Ferry, Iowa, just north of Marquette, on the Mississippi River. The monument is reached by road. Tours and activities near Effigy Mounds.
There are about 14 miles of hiking trails and no paved roads inside the park. Rangers have offered guided hikes in summer; check the official site for current programs and hours.
These are burial and ceremonial places. Stay on the trails and never walk on or touch the mounds.
There is no lodging or camping in the monument. Camping is available at nearby Pikes Peak State Park and Yellow River State Forest, and motels are across the river in Prairie du Chien, Wisconsin.
Questions people ask

Before you go.

What is an effigy mound?

An earthwork built in the shape of an animal, such as a bear or a bird. The monument holds 206 mounds, of which 31 are effigies.

Who built the mounds?

Pre-Columbian peoples, mostly in the first millennium CE. The National Park Service recognizes cultural ties with about twenty present-day tribal nations.

How big is Great Bear Mound?

It is 42 meters from head to tail and rises over a meter above the original ground level.

Can you stay overnight in the monument?

No. There is no lodging or camping inside. Nearby state parks and forests have campgrounds, and motels are across the river in Wisconsin.

More to see

Around Iowa

More things to do around here

Walking tours, day trips and experiences around this area, on GetYourGuide.

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